SPRR Yuma District - The East Line

SEGMENT 4: NILAND to YUMA, MP665.5 - MP732.5

03/15/91

 

Introduction

 

  Through the next 67 miles exist some of the most desolate stretches of the whole Sunset Route.  Not only do few humans live out in this portion of the Colorado Desert, but there are few roads for access to the area.  In fact, often the only real usable path is the railroad access road itself.

  Before wandering out into these parts, make sure that you and your vehicle are in excellent working condition and that you are prepared for any eventuality.

 

 

  In the summer, the weather along this portion of the route has two settings: hot and really hot.  Temperatures can exceed 120 degrees in the shade; on the ground it may be 200 degrees.  During the winter the temperatures are much more moderate with only a few nights where the freezing point is reached.   The winds can roar across the East Mesa, carrying sand that will frost a car's windshield.  The dust from the silty soil will fill your car if you drive with the windows down.  There is little water out here save the the man-made canals, a few springs and seeps, and the occasionally disasterous flash floods that occur during the summer months.

  One oasis of life (if you can call it that) is in Glamis, where for several miles in each direction you will find dune buggies, motorcycles and four-wheelers tearing up the desert and making an awful racket.  State Route 78 crosses the right-of-way at Glamis (MP698.3), making it the only paved road between Niland (MP667.8) and Ogilby (MP716.7).  And unfortunately for the avid railfan, SR78 runs at right angles to the railroad, preventing it from being of much utility except as an escape route in case of emergency. The lowest elevation along this portion of our journey is 165 feet below sea level just west of Niland; the highest is around MP711 at about 395 feet above sea level.  This makes for a total elevation change of just over 550 feet in 45 miles. 

  All in all, it's a grand, glorious piece of desert.  Isolated, it is especially scenic in the winter, when the sun is always low on the horizon and the colors are rich and full.

 

 

665.5  West Switch NILAND Siding (CAL117B5)

            EB/WB Absolute Signals

            Siding Length: North 12169'; South 8548'

            Speed Limit: EB 70-65 MPH; WB 70 MPH

  The south siding leads into the Niland Interchange Yard and eventually to the Calexico Branch of the Southern Pacific, which separates from the mainline up ahead and arrows its way into the heart of the Imperial Valley.

  The north siding is the one used most for passing movements, since there is no contention with yard traffic.

 

666.0  -165' AMSL; +0.4% EB

 

666.1  Bridge over Wind Wash

 

666.2  Bridge over Pike Wash

 

666.6  20' Bridge over Marshy Wash

 

666.9  50' Wooden Bridge over Reed Wash

            West End Niland Interchange Yard

            Community of Niland

  A dirt path leads from Route 111 along the east side of Reed Wash up to the right-of-way.

  The switch marked 0594 provides access from the south siding to the west end of the interchange yard.

 

667.0  -140' AMSL; +0.3% EB

 

667.3  EB Absolute Signal Tower

 

667.4  WB Absolute Signal Bridge

 

 

667.5  NILAND Station

            CALEXICO BRANCH Junction

            West Leg NILAND Wye

            East End NILAND Interchange Yard

            Railroad Maintenance of Way Station

            Southern Pacific Niland Communications Facility

            250' Communications Tower

            Site of Old Water Tank

  Just south of the Niland interchange tracks rests the placid, terminally-baked little town of Niland.  Blazingly hot during summer, pleasantly mild during the winter, Niland was built around the junction of the SP mainline and the Calexico Branch.  However, the station name at the junction as shown on a 1903 Railway map is indicated as "Old Beach".  On a 1910 State Mining Bureau map, the name Old Beach still exists but the name "Imperial Junction" is mentioned in parentheses.  Niland finally becomes a spot on a 1920 Santa Fe Railway map of California.

  Today, little happens in town; there is a Niland Turn that runs out from West Colton occasionally, and during harvest season (which, in the Imperial Valley, is a regular event) quite a bit of produce makes its way onto the mainline at Niland.

  The Calexico Branch was constructed around the turn of the century; the Southern Pacific was confident in the ability of the Imperial Valley to support a huge harvest, so long as plentiful, cheap water was available.  With the diversion of the Colorado River, first through the ill-fated Alamo Canal Project of 1901, and later with the All-American Canal, the Valley blossomed.

  The Calexico Branch passes through El Centro on its way to Calexico, at the Mexican Border.  There the railroad joins with the Mexican remains of the old line to Araz Junction, on the Espee mainline west of Yuma about MP726.  At El Centro, the Calexico joins with the Sandia and El Centro Branches, a total of 81 miles of branchline railroad.

  The railroad's Niland Communications facility augments the railroad's radio coverage locally with a 161.550MHz road channel repeater.  This facility is connected via microwave to the main SP radio trunk at Superstition Mountain, west of Brawley, and a microwave path also goes to the Tortuga facility at MP681.6.

  The water tank stood along the south side of the railroad, surrounded by the once-scenic cluster of now-dead palm trees.  All that remains now are the concrete footings.

 

667.6  Trackside Equipment House

 

667.8  Beal Road Grade Crossing

  About 4 miles northeast, along Beal Road, are "The Slabs".  This was a housing/resort development gone broke long before much more than the concrete slab foundations were poured.  These "slabs" are now home to snowbirds and other nomadic wanderers in their motorized homes; they park on the concrete pad, set out the lawn chair under the awning, and watch the day go by.

 

667.9  East Switch NILAND Wye

  The east leg of the Niland wye and the east approach to the Calexico branch makes a sweeping turn to the southeast to join to the mainline.

  There is a good access road that parallels the railroad to the east.  Access to this road is available from a rudimentary dirt grade crossing just west of the east end of the Niland Wye; the path leads from the paved road over the east leg of the wye and then continues east along the south side of the tracks.

 

668.0  East Switch NILAND Siding (CAL117C5)

            EB/WB Absolute Signals

            -125' AMSL; +0.5% EB

  A Southern Pacific Pipe Lines tank farm borders the south side of the road; this facility gets fuel from the major pipeline that parallels the railroad and stores that fuel in the tanks visible.  Agriculture in the Imperial Valley is very energy-intensive; fuel from this facility is dispersed throughout the valley.

  The railroad continues southeast on a tangent for the next 12 miles.

 

668.2  20' Concrete Bridge over wash (CAL117C6)

  A low-headroom road passes under the trestle bridge, providing access to the land along the north side of the railroad and a connection to Beal Road.

 

668.6  Wooden Bridge over Sylvia Wash

  Noffsinger Road begins to parallel the railroad immediately south of the "S" Lateral Feed, an irrigation ditch supplying East Highline Canal Water to the farms around the Niland area.  The railroad access path is just north of the canal; for those who are a bit squeamish about billowing dust and the silty, sifting soil, Noffsinger Road might be just the trick to travel between Niland and Flowing Wells at MP671.3.

 

669.0  -100' AMSL; +0.3% EB

 

669.3  Block Signals: EB 6694 - WB 6693

 

670.0  -80' AMSL; +0.4% EB

 

670.4  Private Grade Crossing

  This crossing allows access to the Fish Breeder facility about 0.5 miles north of the tracks.

 

670.5  Dragging Equipment / Hot Box DETECTOR - Speedometer

 

670.8  Block Signals: EB 6708P - WB 6709

  Eastward signal 6708 also indicates the condition of the high water detectors mounted under the bridge over East Highline Canal, MP671.3, and the 16-span trestle bridge at MP672.7.

  For the next 0.5 miles the road surface is rather soft in patches.  Take care and don't get stuck.  Noffsinger Road, immediately south of the irrigation ditch, is a hard, gravel road, good in most any weather.

 

671.0  -60' AMSL; +0.8% EB

 

671.3  Bridge over East Highline Canal

            Highline Canal Service Road Grade Crossing

            Community of Flowing Well

  The East Highline Canal pulls water from the All-American Canal east of Calexico, about 40 miles south, and distributes this water to the farms along the east side of the Imperial Valley.  The canal ends about 10 miles northwest of here near Wister.

  The station of Flowing Well(s) appears on maps as far back as 1891.  There are still springs and seeps in the immediate area.

  The access road that leads in from the end of Wiest Road crosses the canal just south of the bridge and continues east along the south side of the tracks.  A grade crossing just east of the canal provides passage to the north side of the tracks and to a dirt road that heads northeast to the Coachella Canal about two miles distant.

  This bridge incorporates a high-water detector; if activated by flood levels on the canal, the eastbound signal 6708 and the westbound signal 6729 will be set to a stop indication.

 

671.5  Low Powerlines Cross Railroad

 

671.6  Camp Santos Cemetery

            Along the south side of the road, south of the tracks, is the Camp Santos cemetery.  It is a very small, faint burial ground for a few.  Do not disturb it.

 

672.0  -15' AMSL; +0.9% EB

            Flowing Well Cemetery

  Again along the south side of the access road, this time the Flowing Well cemetery.  The monument reads:

"FLOWING WELL

Once a tiny desert railroad stop, Flowing Well became the gateway to Imperial Valley in the first few years of the Twentieth Century.  Here, the hardy pioneers who had come by railroad to make the valley what it is today had to transfer to a stage which would take them to the land of their choice.  To these pioneers, to the railroaders and stage drivers this monument is dedicated by The Boy Scouts of America Troop 79".

 

Sometime after this plaque was dedicated there were the inevitable ravages of time and vandals; a later inscription states:

 

"Monument restored and re-dedicated by the Native Daughters of the Golden West, the Native Sons of the Golden West, and the Imperial Valley Historical Society November 18 1989".

 

672.1  High Tension Powerlines cross Railroad

 

672.2  Sea Level!

  Rising gently though the otherwise nondescript landscape, the railroad now leaves the below-sea-level world of the Salton Sink as the tracks continue their gradual climb up onto the East Mesa.  To the north and east of the tracks continue the Chocolate Mountains and the Chocolate Mountains Impact Area.

 

672.7  Trestle Bridge over wash

  This 16-span, 150'-long trestle bridge includes a high-water detector that, when triggered, causes a STOP indication to be displayed at signals EB6708 and WB6729.  The detector is on the north side of the bridge next to the first trestle at the west end.  The Espee Timetable, by the way, also indicates that this bridge is at MP672.9; according to the stenciled marks on the west end of the bridge, this is actually MP672.79.

  The reeds and heavy tamarisk growth indicate plentiful ground water; some of this water usually trickles to the surface just to the south of the railroad bridge, next to the road.

 

672.8  Block Signals: EB 6728 - WB 6729P

  Westward signal 6729 carries a protection (P) plate; this indicates to train crews (via the Timetable) that the signal is also controlled by the high-water detector on the bridge immediately west.

 

673.0  No Mileboard Visible

            30' AMSL; +0.8% EB

  The mileboard (the sign that has the number stenciled upon it) has vanished; the milepost is the fourth pole east of the signals at MP672.8.  The lower half of the pole, as usual, is painted white for identification.

 

673.1  Ancient Shoreline of Lake Cahuilla

  Ancient Lake Cahuilla rose to a maximum elevation of +44 feet above sea level; the ridge immediately ahead is the shoreline of that ancient lake and is a bench cut by wave action.

 

673.2  Ancient Beach of Lake Cahuilla

  A low cut takes the rails up onto the shore of Lake Cahuilla.  The location is ideal for bringing along the beach towel, the tanning lotion and the binoculars.  And there's almost never a crowd at this beach...

 

673.3  Remains of Sand Fence

  A low, wooden-picket fence fronts along the north side of the tracks for a few dozen feet.

 

673.7  150' Steel Deck Bridge over Wash

The railroad spans a wide, deep, tamarisk-choked wash with a two-span steel deck trestle bridge. Downstream are farms; upstream, a dirt road passes under the bridge and provides service to the Coachella Canal about a half-mile east.

 

673.8  West Switch IRIS Siding (CAL117C6)

            EB/WB Absolute Signals

            Siding Length 8475'

 

674.0  75' AMSL; +0.1% EB

  The milesign is in very poor condition; one of these days soon the wind may blow it far away.

 

674.1  West-facing 1175 Spur

  There is a 100-yard-long equipment spur along the north side of Iris siding.  The spur is in fairly poor repair but probably isn't used very often.

 

674.4  IRIS Station

  A long time ago, Iris siding was a mere 107 carlengths long, approximately 4700 feet.

 

675.0  125' Concrete Bridge

            80' AMSL; +0.6% EB

  A few tenths of a mile west and maybe two hundred yards south of the access road, out in the scrub, stands a dilapidated windmill that may still actually work.  Truth is always stranger than fiction.

 

675.7  East Switch IRIS Siding

            EB/WB Absolute Signals

 

675.8  Access Road Veers South

  The following mile or so includes a few twists and turns for those intent on following the right-of-way.  Up ahead is the Coachella Canal and another ditch, older and now abandoned.  Because of these two deep trenches, the access road swings south to parallel the empty ditch to a siphon on the Coachella Canal where a major wash crosses the canals.  The road uses the wash as a path back to the tracks at MP676.6; another path leads to the intersection of the railroad and the Canal at MP676.0.  See the map for details.

 

675.8  Bridge over old Coachella Canal

  This steel deck-girder bridge, installed in 1941, is only single-track width; the bridge piers, however, are built to carry a double-track bridge.  There is no evidence that a second track was ever in place.

  In the early 1980's, the old, unlined canal was abandoned while a new, concrete-lined replacement was constructed just upgrade.

 

676.0  Coachella Canal Service Road Private Grade Crossing

            110' AMSL; +0.6% EB

  There are three paths east that vary in difficulty.  The north path is available by crossing the tracks and continuing east.  The trail is wide and sometimes gravelled and makes it to at least Mammoth Wash at MP680.0.  However, the path can range to a few hundred feet from the railroad.  I have not driven this path.

  To continue along the south side of the tracks there are two choices: the first is to proceed east from this point along the silty, dusty access road bordering the desert growth along the south side of the right-of-way.  The other alternative is to continue along the Coachella Canal Access Road to the big siphon about 0.5 miles south.  Here the road winds its way down to a dusty, silty dirt path that travels along the east side of the wash and heads back toward the railroad tracks.  Both of these south trails meet along the right-of-way at MP676.6.

 

676.1  Coachella Canal Crossing

  A concrete tunnel carries the canal under the tracks.  The water is flowing from south to north.  Don't go for a swim: the walls are steep, the flow strong, the man-eating pirahna vicious and quick (at least that's what I heard...)

 

676.5  Bridge Over Wash (CAL117C7)

 

676.6  South Side Access road rejoins Right-of-Way

  The main road, coming up from the crossing of the Coachella Canal at the siphon, joins with the dusty, silty path leading along the tracks from the west at MP676.0.  Continuing east, the trackside road is generally firm, sometimes a bit dusty.  Note: immediately off this path, the soil is very fine and deep and the unprepared driver will sink quickly, soon to become a permanent part of the old desert.

 

676.9  Block Signals: EB 6768 - WB 6769

  Along to the due south, a few miles off, lie the northern tendrils of the Sand Hills, a complex of dunes that extend northwest from the Mexican border over 40 miles distant.

 

677.0  145' AMSL; +0.6% EB

 

677.7  70' Bridge over Salvation Wash

  Salvation Wash rolls out of Salvation Pass, six miles northeast in the Chocolate Mountains.  Other colorful placenames toward the head end of Salvation Wash include Pegleg and Salvation Wells and German Diggins Wash.  (Yes, that's "Diggins"; either a last name or a misspell...).  Salvation Wash and its tributaries drain a total area of more than twenty square miles, enough to allow for a real gulley-washer to come along and threaten the railroad every once in a blue moon or two.

 

678.0  Dragging Equipment DETECTOR

            175' AMSL; +0.4% EB

  I suppose if it's going to be "Diggins", this should be called "Draggin" Equipment Detector...

 

678.4  Block Signals: EB 6784 - WB 6783

  This marks the location, more or less, of the west end of old Tortuga Siding, a 5700-foot long siding displayed on a 1955 USGS map called "Tortuga".  (Tortuga means "Turtle" in Spanish.  However, tortoises live in the desert, not turtles.)

 

678.5  Old TORTUGA Station

 

678.6  15' Wooden Bridge over Wash

 

678.9  20' Wooden Bridge over Wash

 

679.0  Abandoned Signal Box for old Tortuga Siding

            195' AMSL; +0.5% EB

  The station name Tortuga shows up as early as 1891.

 

679.1  25' Steel Bridge over Wash

 

679.9  Block Signals: EB 6800 - WB 6799

 

680.0  200' Steel Bridge over Mammoth Wash

            Signpost EB 79-65 MPH

            Speed Limit: EB 79-65 MPH; WB 70 MPH

            212' AMSL; +0.2% EB

  Note that the 680 Milepost marker is located at the far west end of the bridge while the bridge itself is stenciled "679.98"; therefore the milepost marker is a bit west of where it really should be.

  Mammoth Wash drains a five-mile long, east-west trending canyon in the Chocolate Mountains about four miles northeast.

  Continuing east, a tamarisk grove along the immediate south side of the tracks now partially hides the railroad from the access road.  Another grove of the trees is planted along the south side of the access road; both of these groves protect the railroad and service road from incursions of sand blown from the Sand Hills a little to the south and west.  The tamarisk groves will end around milepost 683.

  Remember: Most all the Chocolate Mountains are a Bombing Range, with all sorts of awesome-looking fighter aircraft buzzing the hilltops; don't give them any more targets than they may already have.

 

680.8  Concrete Bridge over Wash

  The northernmost fingers of the Sand Hills stretch to within a half-mile or so of the railroad.  There are a few soft spots on the service road for the next few miles, but the tamarisk grove does a fair job of keeping the path clear.

 

681.0  225' AMSL;  -0.2% EB

  During holidays or pleasant weather, recreational offroaders (dirt bikers, etc.) will set up camp in the lee of the Sand Hills in a cove immediately west.  They generally stay to the west, up in the Sand Hills, but occasionally one will wander down toward the tracks.

 

681.3  West Switch REGINA Siding (CAL117C7)

            EB/WB Absolute Signals

            Siding Length 8472'

 

 

681.3  Concrete Bridge over Wash

 

681.6  Southern Pacific Tortuga Communications Facility

            Two 250' Communications Towers

            West-facing Spur

            Water Tanks

  There is a 100-yard long equipment spur along the north side of Regina siding.  The spur is in fairly bad repair but looks serviceable.  There may have been a number on the target at one time but that number is long gone.

  The microwave radio link from Niland Communications Facility connects to the Tortuga Facility; Tortuga is a repeater station for 161.550MHz road channel communications.  The upcoming stretch of railroad is blocked from communications through Superstition Mountain, more than forty miles west and blocked by the nearby Sand Hills; the Telegraph Pass radio site, forty miles east and hidden behind the Cargo Muchacho Mountains, won't help out until about MP710 or so.

  The USGS Tortuga map shows a grade crossing for the Niland-Glamis Road.  If this crossing still exists here, it isn't apparent.  The Niland-Glamis Road does cross the right-of-way a mile or so east at MP683.3.

 

681.7  Concrete Bridge over Wash

  For the next forty miles, there is a series of triangular dikes scraped onto the desert floor along the north side of the railroad, as is seen on the topo map.  Where the junction of two dike walls approach the railroad there is a culvert or bridge on the railroad to allow runoff a controlled route across the right-of-way.  Nearly every one of the culverts or bridges to MP723 are located at one of these drainage points.

 

682.0  REGINA Station (CAL117C7)

            Signpost WB 70 MPH

            210' AMSL; +0.1% EB

  Regina is pronounced reh-JYE-nah; now you can sound just like the big boys.  If you pronounce it reh-JEE-nah you're talkin' vacuum cleaners, son.  Regina means "queen" in Latin.

 

682.3  Concrete Bridge over Wash

 

682.5  Concrete Bridge over Wash

 

682.8  Concrete Bridge over Wash

 

682.9  East Switch REGINA Siding (CAL117C7)

            EB/WB Absolute Signals

 

683.0  Concrete Bridge over Wash

            215' AMSL; +0.5% EB

  The bridge is marked 683.01; the milepost itself is a hundred feet or more east.  The tamarisk grove along the south side of the tracks ends.

 

683.3  Niland-Glamis (Ted Kipf) Road Grade Crossing

  The Niland-Glamis Road starts at "The Slabs", at the end of paved Beal Road, four miles northeast of Niland.  The dirt path winds its way along the western bajada of the Chocolate Mountains, avoiding entanglement with the military, and crosses the railroad tracks.  It continues east along the south side of the right-of-way all the way to California 78 at Glamis.  This is the only reliable route to Glamis.

  Some newer maps show the name of this path as the "Ted Kipf" Road.  The Ted Kipf Road leaves the south side of the railroad tracks at California 78 in Glamis and continues along the railroad all the way to Ogilby, paralleling the tracks about three-tenths of a mile north.

 

683.4  Remains of Gravel Quarry Spur

  Long ago there was an east-facing spur that branched to the north from the mainline and led to a gravel quarry about one mile due north.  This quarry may have been used to supply local gravel as ballast in the 1905-1907 project to block the Colorado River leak into the Imperial Valley.

 

683.5  Concrete Bridge over Wash

 

684.0  245' AMSL; +0.5% EB

 

684.1  Concrete Bridge over Wash

 

684.3  Block Signals: EB 6842 - WB 6843

            Concrete Bridge over Wash

 

684.6  Old AMOS Station (CAL117D7)

  From 1891 until 1928, a station called "Mammoth Tank" was located somewhere nearby.  On a 1928 map, however, is the first use of the name "Amos" for a station.  This station exists also on the 1956 Amos Topo map, which shows a cluster of small buildings and the cemetery.

  There are a few bits and pieces of what was; the concrete slab for the trackside section house, complete with embedded rails, lies just south of the right-of-way.  A survey marker is next-door.

  Amos Siding was about 4300-feet long, beginning at MP683.8 and ending just east of this point.

 

684.7  Concrete Bridge over Wash

 

685.0  Concrete Bridge over Wash

            270' AMSL; +0.3% EB

  The bridge that is a few hundred feet east of the 685 Milepost is stenciled 684.95.

 

685.1  Two Concrete Bridges over Wash

 

685.9  Dragging Equipment DETECTOR

            Block Signals: EB 6858 - WB 6859</